Guatemala Travel Guide – transportation, hotels, tips + 2-week itinerary

Hidden away between the lush jungles of Central America and the stunning coastlines of the Pacific and the Caribbean, Guatemala is (still) one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Offering the same breathtaking Mayan ruins, pristine beaches and charming colonial cities at a fraction of the cost, Guatemala is often overshadowed by its larger and insanely popular Mexican neighbor, though this may turn out to be a blessing in disguise.

However, there’s way more to Guatemala than just being a watered-down version of Mexico. While visiting the country, you can hike one of the world’s most extraordinary active volcanoes, unwind by the waters of Lake Atitlán, wander through colorful traditional markets, swim in natural pools and indulge in some of the finest, purest chocolate you’ll ever taste. A surprisingly diverse destination, especially when looking at its modest size. A place to visit soon, before everyone else finds out about this Central American gem.

So, if you’re planning a trip to this stunning destination, our ultimate Guatemala travel guide is here to help. In addition to practical information about hotels, restaurants, transportation and local experiences, we’ve also put together a 2-week itinerary, including all the places you must see and visit in Guatemala in 15 days.

Guatemala Travel Guide

How to get to Guatemala – Flights from the UK

Since the country is positioned between Mexico, Belize, El Salvador and Honduras, a lot of visitors actually enter Guatemala overland, usually when traveling across Central America. Nonetheless, those arriving from Europe will likely land in the capital city’s main air hub: the La Aurora International Airport.

Unfortunately, there are no direct flights between the UK and Guatemala, so the only way to fly into the country is by having a layover in one of several European and/or US cities. JetBlue and United usually have the best deals for flights departing from London, starting from £400,00 (return), with layovers somewhere in the US (sometimes with an extra stop in either Brussels or Frankfurt).

How many days do I need to visit Guatemala?

Despite being a relatively small country, Guatemala certainly packs a punch when it comes to things to see and do, catering to different priorities and tastes with its tremendous collection of colonial towns, archaeological ruins, beaches, lakes, volcanoes and more! Furthermore, the terrain and poor road conditions will make some of the journeys when moving around the country needlessly long, with a 400-km-long trip taking about 10 hours to complete.

That being said, and despite sounding like a bit of an overkill, we strongly recommend setting aside enough time and money for a two-week vacation in the country. This timespan will give you just enough time to see the main highlights, from the beautiful colonial architecture and imposing volcanoes of Antigua to the Caribbean beaches in Livingston, passing through the colorful market in Chichicastenango, Lake Atitlán, Semuc Champey and the awe-inspiring Mayan ruins of Tikal. While you can visit Guatemala in less time (9 to 10 days at the very least), you’d honestly be doing a disservice to what is perhaps the most underrated country in all of America.

Guatemala Travel Guide – Best time to visit the country

Similar to other destinations across Central America and the Caribbean, Guatemala has both a dry season and a rainy season. Given that temperatures are consistent throughout the year, with lukewarm days and cold nights in the highlands and hot temperatures in the rest of the territory, the key factor in deciding when to visit is the weather. Therefore, if you’ll be visiting all of Guatemala, the ideal window is between November and April, during dry season.

However, and even if you’re only able to visit during a different time of the year, Guatemala is among the Central American nations less affected by monsoons. Yeah, you can get a bit of rain here and there, but these are usually short downpours that go away quite quickly in a matter of minutes. In fact, by far the biggest struggle with visiting during the rainy season is having to deal with the humidity levels, which can get downright unbearable in the lower-altitude tropical regions.

Guatemala Travel Guide – Documents needed for your trip

In order to enter Guatemala, British and Irish travelers you will need to show their passport. The document should be valid for a minimum period of 6 months from the date of departure from the country.

Fortunately, Guatemala has a very relaxed visa scheme, so visitors hailing from those countries may remain in Guatemala for a consecutive period of up to 90 days with no visa required.

Guatemala Travel Guide – Internet and SIM Cards

Since there is no special agreement in place between the UK and Guatemala regarding international communications and roaming fees, using your regular phone plan is a big no-no!

Therefore, our recommendation is that you get a SIM Card when traveling to Guatemala. However, and this is important – don’t buy your SIM card at the airport, as all the options are absurdly overpriced. Just wait until you’re in the city center and pay a visit to one of the many official stores in Antigua or Guatemala City. Currently, there are 2 big companies that pretty much run the mobile data market: Claro and Tigo.

 Claro SIM Card

• All Included 4 GB
  • Data: 4 GB
  • Social Media: Unlimited
  • Local calls and texts: Unlimited
  • Validity: 7 days
  • Price: Q 30
• All Included 6 GB
  • Data: 6 GB
  • Social Media: Unlimited
  • Local calls and texts: Unlimited
  • Validity: 15 days
  • Price: Q 50
• All Included 10 GB
  • Data: 10 GB
  • Social Media: Unlimited
  • Local calls and texts: Unlimited
  • Validity: 30 days
  • Price: Q 100

Tigo SIM Card

• 5 GB
  • Data: 5 GB
  • Social Media: Unlimited
  • Local calls and texts: 100
  • Validity: 15 days
  • Price: Q 50
• 5 GB
  • Data: 6 GB
  • Social Media: Unlimited
  • Validity: 15 days
  • Price: Q 50
• 13 GB
  • Data: 13 GB
  • Social Media: Unlimited
  • Validity: 1 month
  • Price: Q 99

Guatemala Travel Guide – Withdrawals, banking fees and travel budget

With the Guatemalan Quetzal (Q) as the country’s official currency, any withdrawal using a UK bank card might incur in the payment of several different fees. Besides the percentual fee referring to the currency conversion, some UK banks may also charge a flat commission for withdrawals made outside the UK. In some instances, you may well end up paying 5%-6% of your original withdrawal in banking fees.

On the other hand, exchanging money before your trip is not a viable solution either. Besides not being any cheaper, it’s also not safe or wise to carry so much money on you during your trip. As such, we recommend using the services of online banking fintech companies such as Revolut, N26 or Monzo.

Although each have their own limitations and fees, they allow you to withdraw a certain amount in foreign currency without any fees involved. And even after that threshold is reached, costs are much smaller when compared to traditional banks. Keep in mind, though, this does not apply to fees issued by local banks for withdrawals made with foreign cards. In Guatemala, those fees can range from Q 31 to Q 70, depending on the local ATM operator. Be that as it may, a message will always pop up every time there is a fee per withdrawal, so you will never be caught unaware.

Regarding payments, Guatemala is still very much a cash-based society, even in tourist-heavy areas. So, always make sure to have some quetzals on you! Plus, it’s quite common for local establishments to add a card fee to cover for their own expenses with the transaction, should you choose to pay by card. In some cases, those fees can go as high as 8% of the total payment! Sadly, at the time of writing, all Guatemalan banks charge a fee for withdrawals using a foreign card. If you prefer to take cash and exchange your money in Guatemala, here are four exchange offices we can recommend in Antigua and Guatemala City:

• Atitrans – Antigua
• BAC – Antigua
• MoneyGram – Guatemala City (several locations)
• MultiMoney Guatemala / Productos Financieros – Guatemala City

Guatemala Travel Guide – Safety and travel scams

Similarly to what happens all over Central America, crime rates in Guatemala are quite high compared to what we may be used to in Europe. However, most violent crimes are tied to cartels and activities like drug and human trafficking, meaning tourists are unlikely to be affected unless they visit areas controlled by cartels, “investigate” drug trafficking operations and buy, sell or use drugs. Besides, crime rates are much lower in tourist areas, where the local economy is highly reliant on tourism. In fact, the most dangerous stop in our itinerary is Guatemala City, as visitors should remain particularly vigilant when exploring the nation’s capital. As for the touristy areas, which are usually a lot safer, it is recommended to hire a guide (or join a tour) when hiking, since there are multiple reports of thieves and criminal gangs operating along the most popular routes to rob tourists. Moreover, as some of these hikes involve climbing active volcanoes, it’s always a good idea to tag along with someone who’s familiar with the area for safety reasons.

Evidently, and even when strolling through areas that are deemed as safe, it is advised to keep your guard up to avoid becoming a target of theft. Just stick to common-sense – don’t carry large amounts of cash, use indoor ATMs and avoid flashing valuables. Leave jewelry and other expensive items in your hotel safe, only use your phone and camera in tourist areas and avoid deserted, poorly illuminated streets. If you find yourself the victim of a crime, don’t play the hero, as it’s always better to let go of material possessions instead of risking escalation. Trust your instincts: if something feels off, don’t do it! As for transportation, and should you board a “chicken bus”, keep an eye out for your belongings and always carry your bag and valuables on your lap, as experienced petty criminals are known to snatch all kinds of items from below seats and overhead compartments. Also, avoid taking these informal buses at night, where services are more susceptible to organized crime and roadblocks.

Finally, only use taxis with running meters (if you rely on Uber, even better), never exchange money with strangers who approach you on the street and do not drink tap water. Additionally, since part of Guatemala is located in an area that experiences the occasional storm and hurricane every year, adhere to authorities’ instructions in the event of a natural disaster – after all, they’re the experts!

Where to sleep in Guatemala – Hotels and Accommodation

If you’re looking out for a place to stay on our Guatemala travel guide, then we got you covered!

Although affordable, Guatemala isn’t exactly what you’d call a “cheap destination” (certainly not by Southeast Asian standards). If you’re wiling to spend some time looking for local restaurants, sleep in guesthouses and move around using chicken buses, then you may feel like your money really does go a long way in Guatemala. However, if you always go for the quickest, flashiest, most practical option, then get ready to spend as much as you would in Mexico and even in some parts of Europe. Still, within Central America, Guatemala is definitely cheaper than the likes of Costa Rica, Panama or Belize.

That being said, here are some options based on the cities we recommend you to stay at:

Guatemala travel guide – Hotels in Guatemala City

• € – ESTU habitaciones
• €€ – L’Aurora Inn
• €€€ – La Inmaculada Hotel
• €€€€ – Courtyard by Marriott Guatemala City

Guatemala travel guide – Hotels in Antigua

• Hostel – One Day Trip Hostel
• € – Hotel La Sin Ventura
• €€ – Hotel Posada San Pedro
• €€€ – Hotel Gran Plaza Euromaya
• €€€€ – Hotel Museo Spa Casa Santo Domingo

Guatemala travel guide – Hotels in Quetzaltenango

• € – Hotel Golden Inn
• €€ – 7 orejas
• €€€ – Hotel Pensión Bonifaz
• €€€€ – LATAM HOTEL Plaza Pradera Quetzaltenango

Guatemala travel guide – Hotels in Lake Atitlán

• Hostel – Chirris Hostel
• € – Casa Josefa Hotel
• €€ – Eco Hotel Uxlabil Atitlan
• €€€ – Sababa Resort
• €€€€ – Tzampoc Resort

Guatemala travel guide – Hotels in Flores

• € – Casa Maya Itza
• €€ – APARTHOTEL VISTA LAGO
• €€€ – Hotel Casona del Lago
• €€€€ – Bolontiku Boutique Hotel & Spa

Guatemala travel guide – Hotels in Livingston

• Hostel – El Hotelito Perdido
• € – Casa Nostra
• €€ – Villa Caribe
• €€€ – Amatique Bay Hotel
• €€€€ – Hotel el viajero

Guatemala Travel Guide – Transportation from La Aurora Airport to downtown Guatemala City and/or Antigua

Located just 7 km away from Centro Historico, the best way to travel between La Aurora Airport and the center of Guatemala City is through line 13 (green) of Transmetro, a local rapid bus network.  You’ll want to board in Acueducto, about 2 km from the arrivals’ terminal, and get out in Tipografia. The line operates from 05h00 to 21h00 in 12-minute intervals and the bus trip may take 15 to 30 minutes, depending on traffic conditions. In order to buy tickets, first you’ll need to get a Tarjeta Ciudadana, available at the automatic machines found in every station. These rechargeable cards cost Q 20 and include 5 individual trips. Once you use all 5, you’ll have to top it up and any additional rides will set you back just Q 1. Before boarding, don’t forget to validate your ticket on the scanning machines. Alternatively, if you don’t feel like walking those 2 initial km while carrying all your luggage, you can just get your phone out and order an Uber for Q 40 to Q 50.

On the other hand, and though we don’t really recommend it, we know a lot of visitors choose to skip the capital city and head straight to Antigua upon landing. There are several different private operators you can use to complete that 40-km journey. Firstly, you can rely on one of the shared shuttles that depart directly from the airport every single day. Tickets are available online, but you don’t really have to hurry to get a ticket, as there are several drivers actively looking for tourists to help fill up their vans in the arrivals’ terminal (shuttles leave when full and payment is cash only). Prices range from Q 100 to Q 150. If that still sounds like too much of a hassle, you might as well just order an Uber for a total of Q 300 to Q 350. Despite the short distance, keep in mind it will never take you less than 1 hour to get to Antigua. In fact, if traffic conditions are particularly bad, expect to wait as many as 3 hours to arrive!

Finally, if you’re flying by the seat of your pants and just want to get to Antigua as cheaply as possible, then you’ll have to walk 3.5 km from the airport to El Trébol, where there are several chicken buses per hour departing to Antigua. Tickets cost Q 15. Definitely cheaper than any of the other options, but walking around with your bags through Guatemala City may not be the wisest choice for safety reasons.

Guatemala Travel Guide – Transportation and how to move around in the country

Unfortunately, getting around in Guatemala can still feel rather archaic, as there are no railway services and roads are often in bad conditions. Naturally, this also means you won’t be exactly spoilt for choice when trying to get from point A to point B, and more often than not you’ll end up paying an inflated tourist price in exchange for more comfort and convenience. Focus on the word “more”, as you’ll still need to seat through long, uncomfortable shuttle journeys.

As such, and for those heading to Guatemala soon, here’s a little overview of how you can move around in the country!

Tourist shuttles in Guatemala

While it may sound counterintuitive, especially considering how much we usually advocate for independent travel and using local transportation, opting for shared/tourist shuttles in Guatemala will save you a lot of stress. Granted there are some Express Buses, which are large and relatively modern coaches that connect specific cities, the reality is that the vast majority of public transport relies on the infamous “chicken buses”, which are far from ideal for journeys longer than three or four hours (more on that below).

That said, and especially for longer trips, we strongly recommend going for a tourist shuttle. You can check available routes on the GuateGo website or book directly with specialized companies like Atitrans, Magic Travel or Adrenalina Tours. You can also buy tickets directly from any of these platforms. Once booked, simply pay attention to your pick-up and drop-off points and enjoy the ride. Spending 8+ hours in a van might not be the most exciting experience, but the alternatives are far worse and much less safe!

Either way, here are the details for some of the most popular tourist shuttles in Guatemala (companies announce their prices in USD):

• Guatemala City – Antigua: 2h00; $15,00
• Guatemala City – Panajachel (Lake Atitlán): 4h30; $35,00
• Guatemala City – Lanquín: 7h30; $41,00
• Guatemala City – Flores: 9h00; $48,00
• Guatemala City – Puerto Barrios: 5h30; $25,00
• Guatemala City – Rio Dulce: 6h30; $20,00
• Antigua – Quetzaltenango: 3h30; $35,00
• Antigua – Panajachel/San Pedro Laguna (Lake Atitlán): 3h00/4h30; $20,00
• Antigua – El Paredon: 3h00; $20,00
• Antigua – Lanquín: 9h00; $41,00
• Antigua – Flores: 12h00; $75,00
• Panajachel – Chichicastenango – Panajachel: 1h30 (each way); $30,00
• Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) – Quetzaltenango: 2h30; $25,00
• Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) – El Paredon: 4h00; $35,00
• Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) – El Paredon: 9h00; $40,00
• Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) – Lanquín: 9h00; $41,00
• Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) – Flores: 15h00; $95,00
• Quetzaltenango – Lanquín: 10h00; $75,00
• Quetzaltenango – Flores: 10h00; $55,00
• Lanquín – Flores: 8h00; $34,00
• Flores – Rio Dulce: 3h00; $25,00
• Flores – Puerto Barrios: 4h30; $40,00

Chicken Buses in Guatemala

As mentioned above, chicken buses are the most popular form of public transport among locals in Guatemala. Repurposed from old US school buses, these vehicles are a true spectacle painted in bright colors, packed with cramped seats and (often) blasting loud music. Unfortunately, any journey on a chicken bus has the potential to be one of the most uncomfortable of your life, though the dirt-cheap fares might make it worthwhile for short distances. However, no matter how affordable the tickets are, we strongly advise against using these buses for long trips. For anything that takes over two hours, your body and mind will thank you for spending a bit more on a tourist shuttle.

Besides, chicken buses also have a reputation for being relatively unsafe, with multiple reports of tourists having their backpacks stolen and even incidents of armed robberies by criminal gangs. Traveling at night, regardless of the distance, is especially risky and should be avoided. On top of the constant discomfort and security concerns, many routes also require bus transfers. This means that a trip between two places may involve stopping and changing buses one or two times (sometimes more) along the way, adding to an already tiring and excruciatingly long bus journey.

Honestly, the only trip in this itinerary where a chicken bus might make sense is the short 40 km ride between Guatemala City and Antigua. Although we’ve already mentioned it earlier on how to travel between the airport and the city, this particular chicken bus departs from El Trébol and takes about two hours to get to Antigua. Tickets cost a mere Q 20, compared to the Q 100 for a shuttle.

Internal flights in Guatemala

Finally, and given how long many of these overland trips take, it’s easy to see why so many travel itineraries include (at least) one domestic flight. While shuttles and chicken buses can still get you there, the time you’ll have to waste on the road can take up quite a big chunk of your 1 or 2-week vacation. Therefore, making the most of your time is essential! Fortunately, the country is served by several domestic airports, and airlines like Avianca and TAG help connect most destinations across the Guatemalan country!

As distances are pretty manageable in the south of the country, flying is particularly useful for those who aren’t planning on visiting Semuc Champey and wish to cut on travel time in the north, choosing to fly directly from Guatemala City to Flores instead. This flight takes 55 minutes and fares start from €77,00.

Guatemala Travel Guide – Local food and traditional dishes

Much like the rest of Central America, Guatemalan cuisine isn’t exactly something to write home about, as it relies heavily on carbs and plantains. To add insult to injury, Guatemala sits right next to Mexico, where visitors can taste some of the best, most delicious food in the world – a battle not worth fighting! Be that as it may, that doesn’t mean there aren’t a few must-try local specialties, starting with Pepián, considered the national dish of Guatemala. Any type of meat can be used to make this hearty stew, which is prepared with a blend of roasted tomatoes, sesame and pumpkin seeds, different types of chilies and coriander, and then ground into a thick, rich, red sauce.

Though Pepián is the most well-known dish and widely available in pretty much every single local joint, make sure to try other local staples, such as Kak’ik, a turkey leg stew in a tomato-based broth; Tamales, steamed corn dough cakes wrapped in banana leaves; Jocón, a chicken stew cooked in a green sauce made from tomatillos, scallions, green peppers, celery and coriander; Hilachas, shredded beef cooked in a thick broth made with tomatoes, potatoes and carrots; and Tapado, a Garifuna stew from Río Dulce that combines fish, seafood and bananas in a spicy coconut milk-based sauce. Other local favorites include the Guatemalan Churrasco, where a beef steak is usually served with rice, beans, plantains and guacamole; and the Traditional Guatemalan Breakfast, consisting of eggs, tortillas, black beans, plantains, tomatoes, avocado and queso fresco (a local cheese similar to feta, but softer).

To wrap up this culinary journey on a sweet note, be sure to try Plátanos en Mole, fried plantains drizzled with an exotic chocolate sauce made with sesame and pumpkin seeds, chilies and tomatoes (yes, you read that right); Pastel Borracho, a sponge cake soaked in local rum and topped with a thin layer of milk pudding; Polvorosas, crumbly cookies dusted with powdered sugar; Arroz en Leche, Guatemala’s version of rice pudding; Pan de Banano, banana bread; and Rellenitos, mashed plantain cakes mixed with cinnamon and sugar and then filled with sweet bean paste before being deep-fried. For those who prefer a simple yet indulgent treat, nothing beats a square of Guatemalan Chocolate, considered one of the purest in the world, paired with a cup of the country’s legendary strong coffee.

Best Beaches in Guatemala

Playa Blanca: Accessible only by boat from Livingston (or via a hiking trail), this is perhaps Guatemala’s most stunning beach, ticking every box of the stereotypical Caribbean paradise.

Punta Manabique: Equally bathed by the Caribbean waters of Amatique Bay, this beach is completely surrounded by a peninsula covered in dense jungle, home to monkeys, crocodiles, iguanas and even jaguars. No need to be scared, though, as this is a protected area and one of Guatemala’s best spots to witness sea turtles nesting.

Punta de Cocoli: Even though this beach isn’t particularly famous, it is yet another good example of a decent swimming spot near Livingston, along with the Siete Altares waterfalls. Just  base yourself in the town and explore the area’s scenic trails, finding hidden gems (like this one) along the way.

Playa Dorada: Who says beaches have to be located by the ocean? In this case, we bring you a stretch of sand that sits on the shores of Lake Izabal. You can also rent kayaks or jet skis for a more adventurous afternoon once you’ve had your fair share of basking in the sun.

Las Cristalinas: Well, if we’re including lake beaches, we couldn’t just leave the majestic Atitlán out of the equation, as this is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Guatemala! Las Cristalinas is a great contender, but the undisputed best spot to go for a swim (despite not being a beach) is the Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve.

Semuc Champey: Another of Guatemala’s most breathtaking natural wonders, Semuc Champey is known for its cascading limestone pools filled with the turquoise waters of the Cahabón River. It may not be a beach in the traditional sense, but it’s an incredible place to swim, catch a few rays of sun and unwind. An absolute must!

Playa de Monterrico: Finally moving on to the Pacific coast, this has got to be one of the most popular beaches among locals, since many Guatemalans living in the capital come here for the weekend during dry season. It also makes for a great first contact with the shoreline’s signature black volcanic sand.

Playa de Tilapa: One of the most off-the-beaten-path options on our shortlist, Tilapa is a tiny, laid-back, dirt-road fishing village near the Mexican border. Few tourists venture here, a fact which helped preserve the beach’s charm and authenticity.

El Paredon: Finally, we cap off this compilation with what is arguably the most prominent beach in all of Guatemala. Also on the Pacific coast, El Paredón has gained international attention for its waves, making it a hotspot among surfers and lovers of other water sports alike.

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary – Highlights of Two Weeks in Guatemala

Though it may sound somewhat surprising, given the destination’s relative obscurity and modest dimension (at least compared to neighboring Mexico), we definitely recommend spending at least 2 weeks exploring Guatemala. Not only will you have a lot of cool places to see and visit, but you’ll also need to deal with the long bus/shuttle journeys, mostly due to bad road conditions and the mountainous, volcanic terrain.

That being said, and though it may not still allow you to explore everything the country has to offer, with 15 days you’ll be able to at least enjoy the very best of Guatemala. Alongside the classic visit to Antigua and the hike up the Acatenango Volcano, with 2 full weeks you can visit the capital Guatemala City, sail through the majestic Lake Atitlán, shop at the vibrant Chichicastenango Market, complete a few trails around Quetzaltenango, swim at the Semuc Champey natural pools, explore some of the most magnificent Mayan ruins in Tikal (Flores) and cap off your trip at the Caribbean coast in Livingston.

So, without further ado, here are the cities, places and tourist attractions you should visit in a 2-week itinerary through Guatemala:

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 1 – Guatemala City

As it happens in most of Central America, the capital of the nation is far from being the most beautiful or charming place in the country. In the specific case of Guatemala City, it is widely regarded as the most dangerous destination in the country, which when combined with the fact that the best of Guatemala lies elsewhere, leads many travelers to skip the capital entirely, heading straight to Antigua upon landing. While this decision is understandable, we believe it’s worth spending at least a day in the city to get a glimpse of authentic Guatemalan life. Once you’ve settled in, most of your time will inevitably revolve around Centro Historico, officially designated as Zone 1. Considered the heart of the city, while roaming this area you’ll come across the capital’s best-preserved remnants of colonial-era architecture, starting off at Plaza de la Constitución, the largest square in Guatemala. Built around its central fountain, the space is surrounded by some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, including the Catedral de Santiago and the National Palace of Culture, which originally served as the official residence of the country’s president. For Q 40, you can take a guided tour of the palace’s interiors (many say it’s well worth the visit). Not far from the square, you can enjoy breakfast at the sprawling, chaotic and vibrant Mercado Central.

From there, make your way down Paseo de La Sexta – also known as 6A Avenida – a pedestrian thoroughfare and the most famous street in Zone 1, where classic, old-world façades stand side-by-side with architectural eyesores, street performers, cafés, restaurants and panhandlers. A little piece of Guatemalan society. Along the way, take a quick detour to see the Edificio de Correos Central, one of the most photogenic in the city. At the end of 6A Avenida, hop on a Transmetro rapid bus (line 13) at Tipografia. Your final stop will depend on which museum you want to visit next. Since you won’t have time for both, we’ll let you choose between the National Museum of Mayan Art (Q 50), which focuses on ethnographic discoveries and artifacts excavated from Guatemala’s many archaeological sites; or the Ixchel Museum of Indigenous Textiles and Clothing (Q 45), dedicated to preserving the country’s rich cultural legacy deeply rooted in its colorful textiles. If you go with the first, get off at Montúfar. For the later, your stop is 626. Regardless of your choice, at the end of your visit you’ll have to order an Uber to Ciudad Cayalá, your final destination for the day. Built from scratch to serve as one of the most exclusive shopping and residential districts in the capital, Ciudad Cayalá is sort of a “city inside of a city”. Unlike the rest of Guatemala City, this district is safe, clean, well-organized and extremely pretty, mimicking a classic European aesthetic. It’s a great place for a stroll, though it also displays the country’s deep inequalities and the extreme concentration of wealth and power in the hands of a privileged few.

First day wrap-up:

• Zone 1
  • Plaza de la Constitución
  • Catedral de Santiago
  • National Palace of Culture
  • Mercado Central
  • Paseo de La Sexta
  • Edificio de Correos Central
• National Museum of Mayan Art OR Ixchel Museum of Indigenous Textiles and Clothing
• Ciudad Cayalá

Where to eat in Guatemala – Best restaurants in Guatemala City

• El Adobe (Guatemalan traditional)
• Las Carnes de Rodrigo (Guatemalan churrasco)
• Graciela (Guatemalan breakfast)
• Gianni’s (Italian)
• El Parisino El Portón (French)
• Tikka Masala (Indian)
• Del Griego (Greek)
• Casa Cantonesa (Chinese)
• Cadejo Brewing Company (beerhouse)
• The Market (varied)

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 2 – Antigua

Waking up in Guatemala’s capital, your next destination is Antigua Guatemala (or simply Antigua), just 40 km away. Located under the shadow cast by three towering volcanoes – Acatenango, Fuego and Agua – this picturesque colonial city is arguably the country’s most famous destination, and probably the very first image you’ll come across whenever googling anything about tourism in Guatemala. Considering how close both cities are, you can leave early in the morning and arrive in Antigua with plenty of time to spare and enjoy a full day (more details in the transportation section). In fact, it won’t take long to understand all the hype behind Antigua. With its well-preserved ruins, colorful façades, cobblestone streets and stunning volcanoes, the city looks like a postcard come to life… so much so that UNESCO even declared it a World Heritage Site! That being said, to start your visit on the right foot and get some historical context, head first to Casa Santo Domingo (Q 48). Now converted into a 5-star hotel that houses several museums and an archaeological complex, this site was originally a convent, similar to dozens of other religious buildings that used to occupy the streets of Antigua.

After all, and aside from being one of Guatemala’s historic capitals, the city was once the political and economic heart of all Central America under the vast Spanish Empire, making it one of the wealthiest and most powerful cities of the “New World”. Unfortunately, turns out Antigua had this tiny problem colonizers couldn’t have predicted 500 years ago – its location made it highly vulnerable to earthquakes. Though tremors struck the city time and time again, a particularly violent quake took place in 1773, leading many to abandon the city and leaving its grand colonial buildings reduced to rubble. Many of these ruins remain in a state of disrepair to this day, giving Antigua a distinctive open-air museum feel. Your next stop, Convento Santa Clara (Q 40), is yet another prime example of the effects these earthquakes had in the city, although its structure remains in pretty decent condition. Afterwards, you’ll walk by Parque Central, Antigua’s central square. As usual in Latin-American cities, this central piece is surrounded by important local buildings, in this case by the elegant arcades of the Palacio del Ayuntamiento, the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, which houses a free art museum, and the Catedral de San José. The cathedral complex is divided into a renovated church and the ruins of the original structure (Q 20), which was also devastated by the 1773 earthquake.

Leaving the square, continue north along the main street until you reach Arco de Santa Catalina. Painted in its signature yellow color and crowned with a clock, the arch originally served as a passageway for nuns to move between buildings without being noticed. Today, with the Agua Volcano rising dramatically in the background, it has become Antigua’s most iconic landmark and one of the most photographed spots in Guatemala. After capturing the perfect shot, make your way to the La Recolección Architectural Complex (Q 40). Though they’re the fourth set of ruins on your itinerary, these are especially fascinating. While other damaged buildings still maintain some of their original shape, this former monastery was so severely hit that it almost appears broken into pieces, making for a very uncommon setting. Before wrapping up your day, make a stop at Iglesia de La Merced, the most beautiful and ornamented church in Antigua. Entry is free, but you can climb to the rooftop for an incredible panoramic view for Q 20. If you’d rather not spend that amount, rest assured you can get an even better view for free. Just hike up to Cerro de la Cruz, where you can soak in the jaw-dropping scenario as the sun sets over the city and the imposing Agua Volcano.

Second day wrap-up:

• Casa Santo Domingo
• Convento Santa Clara
• Parque Central
• Palacio del Ayuntamiento
• Palacio de los Capitanes Generales
• Catedral de San José
• Arco de Santa Catalina
• La Recolección Architectural Complex
• Iglesia de La Merced
• Cerro de la Cruz

Where to eat in Guatemala – Best restaurants in Antigua

• Rincon Antigüeño (Guatemalan traditional)
• El Porton Tipico (Guatemalan traditional)
• Comedor Las Canches (Guatemalan traditional)
• Restaurante La Santa (Guatemalan breakfast)
• El Carbonero (Salvadoran Pupusas)
• Toko Baru (Indian/Middle Eastern)
• Kombu: Ramen Shop (Japanese)
• La Taquiza Antigua (tacos)
• Urbano Bar & Restaurante (nachos, hamburgers and quesadillas)
• Wachuma (vegan)

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Days 3 & 4 – Volcano Acatenango

One of the most popular activities in Guatemala, many travelers take advantage of Antigua’s proximity to hike up Volcano Acatenango, where they can witness breathtaking views of Volcano Fuego’s eruptions, which remain active to this very day. Surprisingly, this is truly one of the world’s most spectacular natural shows, with Fuego spewing lava and ash every 20 minutes. In fact, some of it can even be seen from the streets of Antigua! However, for the ultimate volcanic experience, the best option is to hike up Acatenango and spend the night at a campsite, where the total darkness makes Fuego’s fiery explosions look even more impressive. If you’re physically fit, and despite the challenge, this is an absolute must-do when visiting Guatemala, as there are few experiences in the world that can compare – it’s like witnessing real-life magic!

Due to the nature of the trail and the necessary preparations to spend the night in the Acatenango, most visitors choose to join a guided tour. This way, you won’t need to carry your own camping gear or worry about logistics. Additionally, unless you’re an experienced hiker, having a guide is quite useful to know the best routes and the riskier areas to avoid. Nonetheless, if you prefer to hike independently, the trailhead begins near the village of La Soledad, about 30 km from Antigua. The best way to get there is by calling an Uber, which costs between Q 200 and Q 250. Since there are multiple paths leading to the summit, we recommend downloading Maps.me to help with navigation. The full Acatenango hike (including the return) covers around 20 km with a 1600-meter elevation gain, which can take between 10 to 12 hours to complete. If you prefer a shorter 1-day option, there’s a more direct 11 km round-trip path. However, Fuego’s eruptions are particularly spectacular at night, so we highly recommend staying overnight at the Acatenango base camp for the full experience.

Now, back to the guided tour option, most itineraries usually follow a similar structure. A shuttle will pick you up from Antigua and take the group to a local restaurant for breakfast before heading to the trailhead. From there, expect a six-hour uphill climb to the Acatenango base camp, where the guides will set up the camping arrangements and cook dinner. The hike is pretty challenging, so participants should be in decent physical shape. You don’t need to be a marathon runner or anything like that, but if you’re not used to exercising you’ll probably struggle. That said, the effort is absolutely worth it once you’re finally able to witness the hypnotizing pace of Fuego’s eruptions, as glowing orange lava illuminates the pitch-black night sky. Wrapped in a warm sweater and sipping a cup of strong Guatemalan coffee, I promise this will be a night to remember! Just keep in mind nights on the volcano can be extremely cold, so dress in multiple layers to stay warm. After catching a few hours of sleep (some hikers actually choose to stay awake all night watching the eruptions), the second day starts before dawn with a hike to the summit, where you’ll get to watch the sunrise. Lastly, all there’s left to do is complete the descent back to La Soledad, where a transfer will take you back to Antigua. Since you’ll arrive in the city around noon, you’ll have time to grab lunch, collect your luggage and catch a shuttle to Panajachel, the gateway to the stunning Lake Atitlán!

Third and Fourth days wrap-up:

• Hike up Volcano Acatenango

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 5 – Lake Atitlán: Panajachel, Santa Cruz, San Marcos and Santa Catarina de Palopó

Considered one of the most extraordinary lakes in the world, the unparalleled Lake Atitlán is one of Guatemala’s most famous tourist destinations! According to scientists, the lake was formed after a violent volcanic explosion left behind this massive crater, which, once fed by multiple water springs, eventually gave rise to its own ecosystem. As expected, the landscape is otherworldly, featuring crystal-clear waters surrounded by volcanic peaks and lush greenery, while countless traditional villages pop up along the banks. More than rushing from one attraction to the next, visiting Lake Atitlán is all about taking in the scenery, completing a few hikes, swimming and hopping between some of the most popular local villages. Truth be told, one could easily spend a whole week exploring the lake, so we’ll need to be selective given our time constraints. For logistic purposes, we recommend making Panajachel your base, as it is the largest, most developed and best-connected town along the lake.

Additionally, it’s worth mentioning that the best way to travel around the lake is by using the local boats, which operate like water buses connecting the different villages of Atitlán. There are several docks where boats depart for different destinations, so you just need to ask around to find the right one. Ticket prices range from Q 10 to Q 25, depending on the distance. The same goes for travel time, which can take up to 60 minutes for the longest route. On the other hand, if you need to travel outside the collective boats operating hours (07h00-18h30), hiring a private boat will be significantly more expensive (upwards of Q 300). Needless to say, locals always pay lower fares than those we mentioned, and the pricing system may not always make sense, as this is an informal and decentralized network (every captain can charge whatever he wants). Moreover, we recommend ignoring any approaches from private boat operators during the day and advise you against buying tickets from anyone outside the docks.

Without further ado, and now that we’ve covered the most important practical information, your first day in Lake Atitlán will be dedicated to the Lower Mayan Trail, one of the most beautiful hikes in the region. Stretching for 9 km, this trail connects the towns of Santa Cruz La Laguna and San Marcos La Laguna, offering stunning views of the lake and the surrounding volcanic landscape. It is an easy and well-marked path, so you can take your time and enjoy the scenery at a slow pace. Once you arrive in San Marcos, you might want to go for a swim at the Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve. Despite what you might have seen in the photos, visitors can’t just show up and swim. I mean they technically can, but it won’t be a pleasant experience considering the waters tend to be murky near the banks. This reserve is a remarkable exception, even featuring a designated platform where you can safely jump into the water from a small cliff.

After a late lunch, you’ll catch a boat back to Panajachel, where you can soak in the atmosphere at Calle Santander, the town’s main street, before hopping on a tuk-tuk for a short 4 km ride to the neighboring village of Santa Catarina de Palopó (Q 30 to Q 40, each way). One of the lesser-known villages around Atitlán, Santa Catarina underwent a massive revitalization project in 2016 when a local investor decided to paint the entire town in blue with traditional Mayan patterns, effectively turning it into an open-air art gallery. The outcome was pretty positive, leading to an increase in the number of visitors and, consequently, a better standard of living for the local population. Besides wandering through its blue streets, you can also enjoy the view from Mirador Santa Catarina before returning to Panajachel.

Fifth day wrap-up:

• Santa Cruz La Laguna
• Lower Mayan Trail
• San Marcos La Laguna
• Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve
• Panajachel
• Santa Catarina de Palopó

Where to eat in Guatemala – Best restaurants in Panajachel (Lake Atitlán)

• Humaya Restaurante (Guatemalan traditional)
• Parrillada Santander (Guatemalan churrasco)
• Restaurante Mexicano la Michoacana (Mexican)
• Guajimbo’s (Uruguayan)
• Tuscani (Italian)
• Restaurante Hana (Japanese)
• The Little Spoon (brunch)
• Cheros Bar Pupusería (Salvadoran Pupusas)
• Famosos Shucos (local sandwiches)
• Taquero Mucho (tacos)

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 6 – Lake Atitlán: San Juan and San Pedro

After visiting four villages on the northern shore, it is now time to explore the western section of the lake, starting with the iconic hike up Indian Nose, the most famous and popular trek in the Atitlán. Located near San Juan La Laguna, the view from this mountain peak is especially beautiful at sunrise, which is why many visitors wake up at the crack of dawn just to experience it. Unfortunately, there are no public boats operating at that time of day, so you’ll have to negotiate a private boat from Panajachel (expect to pay around Q 300). Alternatively, if you’d rather not do the hike independently and prefer joining a guided tour, you can ask the company for help in arranging and negotiating a private boat. As for the trail, it takes about 3 hours to complete its 7-km extension (round-trip), featuring some fairly steep sections. However, the views more than make up for the effort, offering a breathtaking panorama over the lake’s waters, with the San Pedro, Atitlán and Tolimán volcanoes lying in the background. On your way back to San Juan, you can make a detour to Mirador Kaqasiiwaan for a stunning overlook of this specific village.

Once you make it to the town center, treat yourself to a well-deserved, greasy Guatemalan breakfast and take some time to explore the surroundings. San Juan is known as the loveliest of all the lake villages and locals are happy to feed into that popularity. To keep things neat and tidy, residents often hang hats (Calle de los Sombreros) and umbrellas (Calle de las Sombrillas) over the cobblestoned streets to make them look better. Needless to say – it works! Once you’ve seen it all, just take a tuk-tuk to neighboring San Pedro La Laguna, the last village you’ll visit in Lake Atitlán. Alongside Panajachel, San Pedro is also one of the most popular bases for those spending a few days in the region, and it’s particularly known for its impressive collection of rooftop bars and trendy cafés. In fact, if you prefer a livelier atmosphere and better nightlife, you might even consider staying here instead (though transportation connections are more limited). While the town itself isn’t exactly brimming with tourist attractions, it’s an excellent place to enjoy classic Atitlán activities like kayaking and stand-up paddling, before catching the last boat of the day back to Panajachel.

Sixth day wrap-up:

• Indian Nose
• San Juan La Laguna
  • Mirador Kaqasiiwaan
  • Calle de los Sombreros
  • Calle de las Sombrillas
• San Pedro La Laguna
• Kayaking or Stand-Up Paddling in Lake Atitlán

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 7 – Lake Atitlán: Day trip to Chichicastenango Market

For your last day in Lake Atitlán, you’ll go on a day trip to the Chichicastenango Market. Located in its namesake town, less than 40 km away from Panajachel, this is the most legendary market in all of Guatemala, perfectly embodying the stereotype of the chaotic, inebriating and incredibly colorful bazaar that many associate with Central America. It’s the kind of place that is still geared towards locals despite receiving plenty of international visitors. Nonetheless, it’s also a cool place to keep an eye out for potential souvenirs, especially when it comes to traditional textiles, which form part of the greatest cultural and intangible legacy of the Mayan Empire in Guatemala. In fact, almost the entire population of Chichicastenango is indigenous (K’iche’), making them the true historical heirs of this civilization. Other local products include traditional masks, ceramics and incense. While it’s true that prices for these specific items can be slightly higher than in other markets across the country, you’re ultimately paying for the cultural experience.

Plus, the hundreds of wooden stalls popping up along the old cobbled streets make up for a striking sight, especially when the morning mist of the Guatemalan highlands is still lingering in the air. In addition to the market, take the opportunity to visit the Iglesia de Santo Tomás, where Catholic beliefs blend with ancient indigenous rituals; the smaller Capilla del Calvario; the bizarre yet weirdly atmospheric Chichicastenango Cemetery (one of the most colorful you’ll ever see); and Pascual Abaj, an altar formed by a sacred stone erected in honor of an ancient Mayan god, where locals still gather to pray and participate in traditional ceremonies. Unfortunately, a fundamentalist Catholic group ended up damaging the altar back in the 1950’s, scraping off the face of the deity that had been carved into said stone. Nonetheless, locals continue to flock to this sacred site for religious reasons. On the way, you can also stop by the Museum of Ceremonial Masks, which displays masks typically used in those religious rites and other cultural festivities.

Now, for some practical information, it’s important to note that this is NOT a daily market, taking place only on Thursdays and Sundays. As for getting from Panajachel to Chichicastenango, you have at least three different options. The easiest and most convenient is to take a tourist shuttle for $30 round-trip (see transportation section) or book an organized tour. As for the more adventurous or budget-conscious travelers, there’s always the chicken bus! Truth be told, there is no direct public bus between the two towns, meaning you’ll need to make a few transfers along the way. First, you’ll take a bus from Panajachel (right here) to Sololá, where you’ll switch to another bus heading to Los Encuentros. Finally, from there, you’ll transfer once again and take the final bus to Chichicastenango. In total, the journey will take around 2 to 3 hours (depending on waiting times), and you’ll need to follow the same route back. Expect to spend around Q 40 for all the buses, round-trip. Finally, it’s worth mentioning credit card payments are rarely accepted at the market (bring cash), and that haggling is pretty much mandatory. Also, keep an eye out on your belongings, as this is a prime area for pickpockets.

Seventh day wrap-up:

• Chichicastenango Market
• Iglesia de Santo Tomás
• Capilla del Calvario
• Chichicastenango Cemetery
• Museum of Ceremonial Masks
• Pascual Abaj

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 8 – Quetzaltenango (Xela)

After waking up in Lake Atitlán for the last time, you’ll leave early in the morning and take a tourist shuttle to Quetzaltenango, about 2h30 away. Despite its complicated official name, given by the Spanish after their conquest, most locals still call it Xela, its original Mayan name. In fact, one of Quetzaltenango’s (or Xela) many charms is related to the preservation of indigenous culture and traditions, as very few tourists venture into the country’s second-largest city. Well, that and the trails of course, as Xela is surrounded by the highlands’ distinctive volcanoes and lush peaks. However, since you’ll be traveling by land and settling into your hotel, your first day in Quetzaltenango will be way more relaxed. Once you’ve checked in, you’ll start by visiting the Temple of Minerva, located near the bus station just outside the historic center. In fact, this temple, which looks like it’s straight out of Ancient Greece, serves as a great introduction to the quirkiness of Xela, as the city boasts a pretty unique atmosphere and aesthetic that sets it apart from the rest of Guatemala. In this building’s case, it was one of many similar structures commissioned by Manuel Estrada Cabrera, a dictator who ruled for more than two decades.

Apparently, this guy took the education of future generations very seriously, funding several temples dedicated to Minerva, the Roman goddess of wisdom. Next to the monument, you can explore the chaotic Mercado Minerva before entering the central district, where the big, grey buildings give way to the colorful, colonial-era houses. One of these buildings is the Municipal Theatre, an elegant structure that wouldn’t look out of place in a European city. Like most Latin American cities, the Old Town of Xela is built around a central square – in this case, Parque Centro América – flanked by impressive religious and government buildings, such as the Holy Spirit Cathedral or the Municipal Palace. Nearby, we also recommend visiting Puente de los Chocoyos and Pasaje Enriquez, a semi-decrepit yet strangely photogenic commercial arcade. To cap off your day on a high note and get a snippet of the stunning views awaiting you for the next day, we suggest walking up Cerro El Baúl, the main viewpoint in Quetzaltenango. You can hike up on your own, but make sure to get back to the center before sunset.

Eighth day wrap-up:

• Temple of Minerva
• Mercado Minerva
• Municipal Theater
• Parque Centro América
• Holy Spirit Cathedral
• Municipal Palace
• Pasaje Enriquez
• Puente de los Chocoyos
• Cerro El Baúl

Where to eat in Guatemala – Best restaurants in Quetzaltenango

• Restaurante Flor Maya Zona 1 (Guatemalan traditional)
• Cafetería Shaday (Guatemalan traditional)
• Al Azado Criollo (Guatemalan churrasco)
• Sabor de la India (Indian)
• Burritos And Grill (burritos and tacos)
• Bajo La Luna (sandwiches and hamburgers)
• Los Cheros Pupuseria y Típicos (Salvadoran Pupusas)
• Cevichela (ceviche)
• Xelapan (bakery)
• Xela Green (vegan)

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 9 – Volcano Santa María

Now that you’ve explored downtown Xela, it’s time for what truly brought you here: trekking! As mentioned, the city is surrounded by different volcanoes, lagoons and viewpoints, offering plenty of opportunities to hike and experience the breathtaking landscapes of the Guatemalan highlands. Since you won’t have time to visit them all, we recommend focusing on climbing Volcano Santa María, the most famous trek in the region! Brace yourself, though, because this is going to be a tough challenge – reaching the summit at over 3700 meters takes about 4 hours, with another 2h30 to 3 hours needed to go back down. At least the views from atop are nothing short of spectacular, with an awe-inspiring panorama of the smoking crater of Santiaguito, the most active volcano in Guatemala (yes, even more than Acatenango). As usual, you can complete the hike independently using Maps.me (offline maps) or you can hire a guide to help navigate the route (highly recommended if you’re a newbie). If you decide to go solo, the first step is getting to the trailhead in the small village of Llanos del Pinal, about 7 km from Xela.

To get there, you can take an Uber or hop on a chicken bus (a short 20-minute ride) from Parque El Calvario. Once you make it to the starting point, prepare for a long and demanding ascent. The trail isn’t always well-marked, but if you stay alert for red markers and use offline maps, it’s unlikely you’ll get lost. Most importantly, take your time, pace yourself and rest when needed to avoid exhaustion or altitude-related issues. When you reach the summit and the sense of accomplishment starts kicking in as you feast your eyes on the volcanic landscape and Santiaguito’s smoky crater below, that dopamine will help you forget about all the struggles to get there! On the other hand, if you feel this hike might be too strenuous, you can go for a shorter trek to Mirador Volcán Santiaguito or choose to climb the much shorter Cerro Quemado. If you’ve had your share of volcanoes and are looking for a completely different type of trail, consider trekking to Laguna Chicabal, a sacred site for followers of ancient Mayan religions. If you’re lucky, you may even witness a traditional ceremony taking place on its waters!

Ninth day wrap-up:

• Hiking up Volcano Santa María

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 10 – Traveling to Lanquín

We know we’ve mentioned multiple times so far that moving around in Guatemala can be quite the tedious experience, since bad road conditions and the rugged terrain will really slow you down. However, today you will actually experience that pain! Turns out you have a loooong journey ahead of you to reach Lanquín, the next stop on the itinerary. Departing from Xela, the tourist shuttle (more details in the transportation section) will take no less than 10 hours!

With that in mind, don’t expect to do anything else today. Once you finally make it to Lanquín, just check into your accommodation, grab something to eat and prepare for an exciting day tomorrow.

Tenth day wrap-up:

• Shuttle from Quetzaltenango (Xela) to Lanquín

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 11 – Semuc Champey

Deep in the heart of the dense Guatemalan jungle, the small and unassuming town of San Agustín de Lanquín might seem like a destination with little to offer. In fact, considering how long you need to travel just to get here, no wonder a lot of people wonder whether the hassle is worth it or not. However, just 10 km outside of this town lies one of Guatemala’s greatest natural treasures: the breathtaking Semuc Champey! Formed by a deep canyon covered in lush vegetation, this natural monument features among the country’s most iconic sites, as many people come here to enjoy the views and swim in its countless cascading limestone pools fed by the turquoise waters of the Cahabón River. It’s a great place to hike, soak in one of the world’s most unique landscapes and take a refreshing swim – what’s not to love? Unlike some of the more challenging volcano hikes, Semuc Champey is very well-organized and easy to visit, meaning you can explore on your own once you take care of transportation arrangements. Speaking of which, there are several ways to get from Lanquín to Semuc Champey. Perfectly aware of the site’s popularity, locals operate frequent 4×4 pickup trucks (known as Colectivos 4×4) that shuttle visitors from this place to the park entrance in about 30 minutes for Q 25 one-way. Alternatively, you can hike the entire distance or join a guided tour.

Once you arrive and pay the Q 50 entrance fee, just follow the signage to find your way around the area. Explore freely, but make sure to at least go for a swim in the crystal-clear pools and hike up to the famous viewpoint (yeah, the one that features in apparently every single travel guide). Although you’ll need to pay extra, the complex is also home to the Ka’an Ba Caves (Q 60), a thrilling underground cave system that you’ll explore as part of a group as you navigate waist-deep through the water, climb rock formations and squeeze through narrow passages… all while holding nothing but a candlelight! If that sounds like too much adrenaline for one day, you can swap (or complement) the experience with a tubing session down the Cahabón River. Also for Q 60, this relaxing ride lets you float downstream in an inflatable tube, beer in hand. However, keep in mind that rapids often form during rainy season, making for a way bumpier and more intense ride. At the end of the tubing route, pickup trucks will be available to take you back. Lastly, be sure to bring your own towel, flip-flops and food, as there are no restaurants inside the reserve and the few located just outside aren’t known for being particularly good. Lockers are also available for storing your belongings while you swim, but you’ll need to bring your own padlock to secure them.

Eleventh day wrap-up:

• Semuc Champey

Where to eat in Guatemala – Best restaurants in Lanquín

• Aragoncito Bistro al Carbón (Guatemalan traditional)
• Comedor Shalom (Guatemalan traditional)
• Comedor la bendicion (Guatemalan traditional)
• Mi Rancho (Guatemalan churrasco)
• Restaurante Mar y Tierra Lanquin (Guatemalan churrasco)
• Zamat Kitchen (Guatemalan breakfast)
• Zen La Poza (varied)
• Guayahá Restaurante (varied)

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 12 – Traveling to Flores

To show just how isolated from the rest of the world Lanquín really is, you’ll have to “waste” another entire day just to get out of the tropical jungle. This time, you’ll endure an 8-hour ride in a tourist shuttle to Flores, the heart of the Petén Department and one of northern Guatemala’s most important cultural and urban hubs.

However, what truly makes Flores worth the detour is the chance to explore one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the Americas. But more on that soon!

Twelfth day wrap-up:

• Shuttle from Lanquín to Flores

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 13 – Flores: Tikal

Recovered from yet another long journey through the jungles and forests of Guatemala, you will finally wake up in Flores, which for many is actually the very first destination they visit if they’re entering overland from Mexico (Yucatan Peninsula) or Belize. Like Lanquín, this city’s popularity among tourists is closely tied to one single place, although Flores offers a bit more to see and do compared to its predecessor. Either way, given how little time you’ll spend here, it’s better to start off by visiting Tikal, an archaeological site many claim to be the best Mayan ruins in the world, even better than the legendary Chichén Itzá, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Plus, unlike its Mexican counterparts, Tikal actually has a known and well-documented history, allowing historians (and therefore the public) to better understand this ancient local kingdom, its political system and the history behind its many ruins. Moreover, the way these massive structures emerge from the dense jungle as you explore will make you feel like a true Indiana Jones! Even today, historians and archaeologists estimate that much of the city remains buried beneath the Guatemalan rainforest.

However, among what has in fact been excavated and is open to visitors (which is quite a lot), it’s important to highlight the structures within the Gran Plaza, considered the heart of Tikal. These include the Temple of the Jaguar, the most popular monument in the complex; the North and Central Acropolises and the Temple of the Mask. Once you venture deeper into the jungle, don’t miss out on the Temple of the Double-Headed Serpent, considered the tallest in Tikal, where you can climb to the top for a stunning view over the ancient Mayan city. Also worth visiting are Temple V, a hidden pyramid partially camouflaged by vegetation, and the Mundo Perdido Complex, a kind of subsection of Tikal with even more historical buildings. As for transportation, let’s start off by mentioning Tikal is located about 65 km from Flores. There are several ways to travel between the two, with the most popular options being a tourist shuttle ($20,00 round-trip), a chicken bus (Q 50 each way from the Flores bus station) or a guided tour. Regarding tickets, this is the only place in Guatemala where we recommend buying your ticket online. The price is the same (Q 150), but the ticket office is quite far from the entrance to the ruins, and not all buses wait for passengers who need to stop there. Other than that, everything runs quite smoothly.

If you leave Flores early and arrive at Tikal’s opening time (8h00), you should be back by 13h00, meaning you’ll still have time to have lunch and explore a bit in the afternoon. Located on the shores of Lake Petén Itzá, Flores features a small and charming Old Town located on a tiny island connected to the rest of the city by a small bridge. Interestingly, crossing over feels like stepping into a different world, where the hustle and bustle and the traffic give way to a delightful maze of narrow streets, quant alleys and colorful colonial houses! Here, you can stop for a coffee at the central square, called Parque Monsenor Próspero Penados del Barrio, and visit the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios before strolling along the Malecón, the lakeside promenade that circles around the island. The district itself is quite small, taking just 40 minutes to explore all its nooks and crannies, but it is also one of the most charming quarters in the whole country. If you still have some time left and feel like venturing onto the lake, you can rent a kayak or take a water taxi to the San Miguel Peninsula on the opposite side (Q 20 round-trip). That’s where you can take a refreshing dip at Playa Chechenal and hike up to Mirador del Rey Canek for a beautiful panoramic view of Flores Island and Lake Petén.

Thirteenth day wrap-up:

• Tikal
  • Gran Plaza
  • Temple of the Jaguar
  • Norte Acropolis
  • Central Acropolis
  • Temple of the Mask
  • Temple of the Double-Headed Serpent
  • Temple V
  • Mundo Perdido Complex
• Flores Island (Old Town)
  • Parque Monsenor Próspero Penados del Barrio
  • Catedral de Nuestra Senora de los Remedios
  • Malecon
• San Miguel Peninsula
  • Playa Chechenal
  • Mirador del Rey Canek

Where to eat in Guatemala – Best restaurants in Flores

• Bistro Puertas del Cielo (Guatemalan traditional)
• Restaurante Tipico Imperio (Guatemalan traditional)
• Terrazzo (Italian)
• Tacos Los Peces (tacos, burritos and quesadillas)
• Maple y Tocino (brunch)
• Raices Restaurant (varied)
• Restaurante Maracuyá (varied)
• Los Amigos Restaurant (varied)

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 14 – Río Dulce

Time to get back on the road – this time towards Livingston, the main beach resort on Guatemala’s Caribbean coast. However, instead of wasting the entire day on a tedious journey, you’ll make the most of the trip by experiencing one of the nation’s most scenic routes. As you’ll soon find out, Livingston is completely surrounded by untamed nature and actually cut from the rest of the country, with no roads leading in or out of town. As a result, the only way to get there is by taking a ferry, with regular connections from Puerto Barrios and Río Dulce. In this case, we recommend the latter, as the boat trip between Río Dulce and Livingston is one of the most beautiful (and underrated) in the world, winding through the river’s narrow channels and crossing the stunning El Golfete Lake. If you’ve always dreamed of sailing through a tropical rainforest, then here you can do it without committing to a rough, grueling, multi-day journey. Plus, this is also where you’ll start noticing a gradual shift in the ethnic composition of the population, with Mayan influences slowly making space to the Afro-Caribbean culture of the Garifuna people.

To reach Río Dulce from Flores, you’ll need to take a tourist shuttle (3h00; $25,00). Once you arrive, there’s no need to spend any time in town, as the real beauty lies on the water. Currently, there are two daily ferry departures to Livingston, leaving from the Municipal Pier at 9h30 and 14h30. Tickets cost Q 125. Interestingly, despite being a public transportation service, the journey is almost structured like a guided tour, with strategic stops at popular spots along the way, such as the Castle of San Felipe and Isla de Pajaros. Be that as it may, there’s really no need for any major attractions, since the best part is simply relaxing and soaking in the breathtaking scenery. After about two hours, the river will flow into Amatique Bay, where the boat will dock in Livingston. There likely won’t be much time left in the day, so check into your hotel, grab a bite to eat and take the opportunity to unwind. Tomorrow, paradise awaits!

Fourteenth day wrap-up:

• Río Dulce (boat trip to Livingston)

Guatemala 15-Day Itinerary: Day 15 – Livingston

As your time in Guatemala comes to a close, we thought it would be fitting to cap off this adventure in the country’s most idyllic spot, where you can soak up the sun, enjoy the beach and swim for a bit before heading home. To be honest, Livingston itself isn’t really all that pristine, as some of the local beaches are a bit dirty and the waters of the Amatique Bay do not look particularly inviting near the town center. However, once you shy away from the pier and venture into the back trails, you’ll get a bit more of that stereotypical Caribbean landscape. Of course, beach tourism isn’t really Guatemala’s strongest suit (for that, you’d be better off heading to Mexico or any Caribbean Island), but it makes for a perfect complement to an unexpectedly diverse destination. Moreover, and though you may have had your first contact with Guatemalan Garifunas in Río Dulce, Livingston is actually the centerpiece of this community, allowing you to engage with them and understand the differences compared to the rest of Guatemala, not only in terms of skin color/ethnic features but also cultural aspects like music and food. That said, get ready for the day by putting on some comfy shoes and hitting the trails north of Livingston!

The paths are well-marked and easy to navigate, so you can do them independently. After about two hours, you’ll reach Siete Altares (Q 20), a stunning waterfall that stands out as Livingston’s main tourist attraction. Another 6 km further north, you must also visit Playa Blanca (Q 30), one of the most beautiful beaches in Guatemala. Again, it’s important to adjust expectations, as the Guatemalan coastline is much less impressive than those of neighboring countries. Still, within the context of the country, you’re unlikely to find better! On the way, you can also stop by the small Punta de Cocoli. If you’d like to save some time and effort, simply head to the local pier and catch a public boat to Siete Altares (Q 50), completing only the rest of the way on foot. After spending your final night in Guatemala, you’ll need to make your way back to the capital city, where you’ll board your transatlantic flight home. In this case, the quickest route is to take a ferry to Puerto Barrios (instead of going through Río Dulce) and then transfer to a shuttle to Guatemala City. Alternatively, if you’re traveling across Central America, you can catch a boat directly from Livingston to Belize (Punta Gorda) or travel by land from Puerto Barrios to Honduras.

NOTE: Given the way the itinerary was designed, I’ve decided to include Livingston as your beach destination in Guatemala. However, if you’d like to explore other beaches, your best bet would be to head to the Pacific coast, where you’ll find popular spots like El Paredon or Monterrico.

Fifteenth day wrap-up:

• Siete Altares
• Punta de Cocoli
• Playa Blanca

Where to eat in Guatemala – Best restaurants in Livingston

• Las Tres Garifunas (Guatemalan traditional – Garifuna)
• Rasta Mesa (Guatemalan traditional – Garifuna)
• Mi Tierra Morena Livingston (Guatemalan traditional – Garifuna)
• Restaurant Casa Rosada (Guatemalan traditional – Garifuna)
• Gamboa Place (Guatemalan traditional – Garifuna)
• Buga Mama (Guatemalan traditional – Garifuna)
• Pupusería Lupita (Salvadoran Pupusas)
• Casa Nostra Restaurant (pizza)